07AUG2017 - 08AUG2017 Flight from SFO to LHR to ZAG
Apparently our hotel can arrange transport from the airport to the hotel for a fixed taxi rate. Ryan was able to arrange that while we were on our layover in London, so that was perfect. We arrived and were able to hop into a cab and go. The cab took us to our home base for a few days, Hotel Jagerhorn, which is smack dab in the middle of Zagreb, equidistant between the Upper and Lower towns. We arrived at the hotel ready for a nap. We dropped our bags, showered and napped for a couple of hours before venturing out to explore.
We checked out the pedestrian walk, Tkalčićeva and headed up Stakinska Street to Tolkien's House for a drink. While sitting there, the church across the alley was in service and there were so many folks in attendance that it flowed out the front door. So while we drank we watched the church service and listened to the congregation sing a few hymns. Nice, albeit a bit ironic, to enjoy while we drank on the patio. Then we moved along Tkalčićeva to Pivnica Mali Medo for Beer and Wine. We wandered down the pedestrian walk a little further and more and more people were starting to pour into the streets. Restaurants were getting full, people were drinking and smoking, and all the cafe lights were illuminating. We were starting to feel the jet lag set in, so we found a quick bite at a place that sold burgers, because I knew it would be easy....just not memorable, so no need to critique. After that we headed back for a good night's sleep.
09AUG2017 Zagreb
It's hot in Croatia during August. I can completely understand why all the folks here gravitate to the coast any chance they get in August. While the hotel we stayed at had air conditioning, I will say it was more on the weak side of cold. We had it cranked all the way up to the highest setting and it just wasn't doing it. So, the sleep we did have was a bit restless and not great. Not the hotel's fault...its just hot there. Be forwarned that there are no elevators in Hotel Jagerhorn, so it is up and down stairs with your bags and things. The staff will help but only if they're around. Breakfast at the hotel was typical European fare....lots of breads, cheese, cold cuts, scrambled eggs, grilled veggies, fresh tomatoes and other fresh fruits. It came with some delishiouly rich coffee and service with a smile, so I cannot complain.
We took the short funicular (shortest in the world, allegedly) up the hill to do our guidebook's walk of the Upper town. Even though it was barely 10am, it was already getting oppressively hot. We kept to the shade and took about 45 minutes to do the Upper town walk. It has some wonderful views of Zagreb from the top and I really liked seeing the multi-colored tile roofs on UIKeyInputDownArrowmany of the buildings. The tower that houses the noon shot cannon was nice to see. I really enjoyed walking through the shrine built in to an alleyway that passes through a building from one alley to another (Kamenita Vrata). What a pretty surprise as you are just walking down the sidewalk. It was a very peaceful place to say a little prayer. Our guidebook provided just enough history of the sights and items on the walk that we headed back to the hotel for a quick duck into the A/C to decide what to do next.
Our friend Jeff, who we were meeting up with in a few days, suggested we try the Nikola Tesla Technical Museum as an activity to escape the heat. Since the main road was closed due to construction, we opted to take the street tram the mile and a half to the museum instead of walking. Our hotel staff and the lady at the Tabacco stand were extremely helpful to explain how the tram worked for us. So we jumped on the tram for another adventure. Even though we opted for the shade tram ride, by the time we arrived, we were both dripping in sweat and craving some A/C and some shade. Hopeful as we ducked into the museum, we were disappointed to find that they were remodeling the front of the museum, so the entire front wall section was gone and thus any attempts at cooling the space were thwarted. We walked through the huge collection of machinery, engines, pumps, propellers, and other bits and pieces of random machines. My hubs was in heaven, with the exception of the balmy heat inside the building....this was his type of museum. He loved showing me how the different engines worked as well as the different oil drill bits. Although this museum was a bit boring for me, I tolerated it because he really enjoyed the contents and it was nice to see him happy. When we went to the second floor, which specialized in environmentally friendly appliances and building materials, the heat was just too much, so we decided to call it quits. The Mimara museum was nearby...so we headed that way in hopes of some A/C and maybe an interesting exhibit.
The collection housed in the Mimara museum was very eclectic: paintings, sculpture, random artifacts. There are many stories out there on how Mimara accummulated the pieces for the museum: stolen during the war....copies of actual masterpieces. Whatever. We were here for the A/C. Ryan immediately found the "boyfriend" chair in the museum under an air vent, while I walked the floor of paintings. I did find a Renoir there that I enjoyed and a painting of red poppies, but the art there wasn't really my style, so to speak, but it was nice to get out of the sun and in the shade for a short period of time.
We enjoyed a nap and then we headed to the Wine Bar Bornstein to try some local Croatian wines. The wine bar is quite literally in a bricked-in basement,which kept the room nice and cool. We ordered a cheese plate and took the Tour of Croatia wine flight. The proprietor was very knowledgeable about the wines and the areas in which the grapes were grown. He walked us through the different terroirs of Croatia and provided us with a sparkling, two whites, three reds and even an orange wine to taste. It was fun and I was glad they stayed open long enough for us to try it....as they were turning away people who came in after us.
We decided to try Agava on the Tkalčićeva street for dinner. The restaurant is multi-terraced and lit up beautifully. We were a little nervous when we walked up to the host station because the restaurant looked completely full, but they were able to offer us the one table left in the corner. The food was great! I wouldn't call the restaurant expensive or cheap, but it was mid to upper range in price, good quality and awesome ambiance. Make sure to make a reservation as I think we just got lucky.
10AUG2017 Zagreb
I wanted to find the Sheraton Hotel and learn about how to pick up the car the next day, so we walked the mile and a half to the hotel and located the office to pick up the car. After a little confusion with the locaition of the rental office because the company we rented the car through, Nu Rentals, contracts with Nova Rentals for the actual rental. So I should have been looking for Nova instead of Nu (always read the fine print, eh?). Weirdest thing was that we wanted to get the car by 10:30, which I specified in my reservation on Trip Advisor. However, the office received a check out time of 12. So we asked the office if we could get it at 10:30 like I asked and they weren't sure if that was possible but suggested we call in the morning to see if it is ready. We left feeling a bit more comfortable with he rental and set out to check out more of the Lower Town.
On the walk back we decided to try the Arts and Crafts museum since we walked past it the day before and the building was pretty. This also was an exhibit of lots of types of art, not just paintings, so I think hubs enjoyed it a little better than the other art museum we went to. It has a lot of different exhibits: clocks, photographs, furniture, clothing, stained glass, etc... I think he liked the woodwork pieces the best, where I gravitated towards the photos and the stained glass. On the bottom floor was a strange exhibit on the development of signage in the airport that people of all backgrounds could understand. I'll admit, that exhibit was a little strange. They were also featuring a baroque exhibit with lots of paintings and ink drawings from Venetian artists. Meh.
Once we made it back to our hotel's street, we decided to try the Museum of Illusion which is like a very small version of the Exploratorium in SF. Lots of exhibits to illustrate different perception principles and how the brain interprets information. I liked the exhibits. Lots of hands on activities. I think this museum is best suited for a 5-7 grade student, but nonetheless, hubs and I enjoyed it. It's a quick museum and not much of a time commitment is required to see this museum.
We ducked into a pub for a quick snack of French fries and a beer (sparkling water for me) at Pivnica Medvedgrad (same company of beer as Mali Medo that we went to our first night in Zagreb). It was a perfect snack before heading back for a nap.
Went to another wine bar to start our evening. The Wine Bar Basement is situated at the base of the funicular with tables on the sidewalk and jetting into the street...perfect for people watching. I don't think hubs appreciated the noisy ambiance, but I loved watching everyone walk to and from the funicular. The owner poured for us. I did a flight of Malvasia wines which was really interesting because they were all the same winery and all the same grape, just grapes grown in different soils. It was fun to compare and contrast the wines in that way. Hubs enjoyed a flight of white wines. We also enjoyed a cheese plate of local cow cheeses. Again, great evening trying some of the local wines.
I had done some research at the hotel for some restaurants for dinner, so we were planning on going to a restaurant in the lower town area, however, we while finishing our wine, we noticed a storm was brewing. A strong wind started to kick up and the sky was turning a menacing black. We quickly paid our bill and snatched up our stuff and started to quickly walk towards the restaurant. The rain just started as we reached the restaurant, and the wind was crazy. As we hurried through the streets, we noticed all the servers at the he outdoor cafes trying madly to collect all the chair cushions and outdoor cutlery to bring inside. We reached the restaurant just in time for the rain to start, but unfortuntely the host turned us away at the door, even though there were tables available inside, he said he needed to leave them available for the folks eating outside already that might move in. So we opted to run to the pub that we were at earlier that afternoon because 1. It's a pub, 2. It has covered seating outside and 3. We knew where it was. We reached the pub before we were soaked through from the rain and enjoyed some pub fare for dinner. Very strange random storm, but by the time we finished eating, the storm was over.
11AUG2017 Zagreb - Tkon, Pašman
After breakfast we headed over to the Sheraton to pick up our rental car. Lots of mixups here. Unfortunately, the rental car agency didn't get the message to have it available until noon. So we sat in the Sheraton for a while waiting, but then finally we had the car (they upgraded us to a larger hatchback than what we requested) and we set off. I am so thankful that Ryan is a talented navigator, as I am not. I just frustrate him when I try to read maps and get us places. So, as a result, I get to put aside my hatred of driving in foreign countries, and take the wheel while he gets us from point A to B. Having our hotel in such a central location was fabulous for walking but not so much for driving. While Ryan raced to the hotel to grab our bags, I had to double park halfway onto the sidewalk and half onto the street saying multiple prayers that 1. I wouldn't get a ticket while sitting there, 2. i wouldn't be cursed at the passers-by for blocking the sidewalk after only being in the car for less than 5 minutes, and 3. I wouldn't be hit by the tram that shares the road with the cars. It was extremely stressful waiting those 3 minutes. However, all was well....bags were loaded and Ryan jumped in to navigate us out of Zagreb successfully without a traffic violation or hurting anyone/anything. Phew!
We headed down the coast and to the small town of Biograd. We experienced lots of traffic along the way since it was Friday, and lots of folks were headed out of the city and to the water for the weekend. Finally we reached the ferry dock and got in touch with Jeff. Sandra and Jeff are our dear friends from Davis, and they come to Croatia every 2 years or so to visit with Sandra's family who live outside of Zagreb. They always vacation on the same island of Pašman every year and have been going since Sandra was little. She is happy to carry on the tradition with Jeff and their two kids, Maya and Mark. We decided to join them for a couple of days on Pašman during our adventure, so Sandra hooked us up with an apartment on the island. However, just due to life getting busy, we didn't get a chance to discuss logistics about us arriving today, so we were winging what needed to happen to get us to the island. We drove up and parked in the ferry queue line and waited for the next ship. Jeff showed up with the kids as the ferry arrived and cars started to drive onto the boat. We were getting nervous as the boat was filling up quick but the stars aligned and we were the 2nd to last car to fit on that boat! I successfully got us on the boat without hitting anything and we floated across to the island. Sandra met us on the other side and directed us up the hill to our apartment so that we could drop off our bags. Then we rushed down the hill to meet all of them for dinner at their favorite place, Sovinje. It was so nice to have Sandra there to translate for me so that they could customize my dish to meet my dietary needs. The location of the restaurant is absolutely perfect. Right on the edge of the water and perfectly in line for a breeze. Good food and good service. Then we headed off to bed.
12AUG2017 Tkon, Pašman - Zadar - Tkon
Shitty time trying to sleep on the couch as it never really cooled off in the apartment. But, oh well.....got things to do and places to go. Sandra and Jeff had arranged for a boat trip for the 6 of us, but unfortunately we had to cancel because of the rough waters. But, this was good news for us because it meant the breeze was up and would help keep the air moving and the humidity away. So instead, we settled on a day trip to Zadar via bus then ferry. Good news for us seasick-prone folks, it was a fast moving ferry, so not lots of bouncing on the 20 minute ride. Yay for that! I remarked on Sandra's billowy pants she was sporting and she told me she bought them from a vendor on the island....I asked if she could take me there so that I could have some rocking cool "PAAANNNNTTTS" too....thus the weekend of the "PAAAAANNNNNNNTTTTSS" was born.
Zadar was very crowded as I am sure many of the tourists felt the same way we did about being on the water that day and decided a side trip there was a good idea. We decided to hike up the bell tower and then tour the adjoining church. The bell tower provided many attractive views of the city and the sea surrounding it. We proceeded to walk around finding a place for lunch. The place we found had good food, but was disappointed that they only allowed us to pay in cash....this put a huge dent in our cash supply. I wish I could recall the name of it, but I cannot find it in Trip Advisor to even write them a review to give feedback or warn other travelers so that they don't fall into that trap. After lunch we walked the waterfront to the sea organ...an art display where pipes were installed under the concrete right on the edge of the ocean so that when the waves washed up to the shore, it would play music. What a neat experience! I had seen in on Facebook and was so happy to have made it here to experience it for myself. For the rest of the time in Zadar, we hit a cafe for a drink and then walked around the streets a little bit before hopping on the ferry to catch the bus back to Tkon. We grabbed a bite at Jeff's favorite restaurant, Sovinje and then hit the hay. This time it cooled off enough that we were able to sleep in the bedroom.
13AUG2017 Tkon, Pašman
Time for a relaxing day on the Island Pašman, so we headed down to our favorite coffee spot to watch folks drive onto the ferry and enjoyed our morning caffeine fix. Ryan headed to the small rocky beach that is near the ferry dock, while I went shopping with Sandra for dinner. Maya was tired of restaurants during the vacation and had been asking if we could cook, so Sandra and I headed to the butcher shop first to pick up meat for dinner. We found some beautiful veal cutlets that they cut onsite for us and a large beef knuckle for making some soup. They had a couple cheeses at the butcher shop, so we picked up a goat cheese for lunch. Then we found some great zucchini and potatoes for roasting. We dropped off the goods at Sandra and Jeff's place, then we headed to the beach for some water fun.
The Adriatic is much more salty than the Pacific that I am used to. I kept getting splashed in the eyes, and it would sting like nothing else. We played in the water until after 1300, and then decided to head up to Jeff and Sandra's to try to clean out their fridge for lunch. But, in true Sandra style, we needed to head to the market to pick up more for lunch. So, we went to get beers for the guys, wine for the ladies, mineral water, some mortadella, prosciutto, and a couple of other small items. Then we headed to the apartment for a light cheese and meat lunch with some local figs and grapes....yummy! We polished off the wine and beer and then headed back for a quick nap before rejoining them for dinner.
By the time we arrived (I went on the way to buy my "PAAANNNNTTTSSS" and then promptly took Maya down to the vendor to get her some "PAAAANNNTTTSS" as well), Sandra had already made the beef and vegetable soup with rice. I helped her make the veal cutlets and made a nice buttery pan sauce to go on top. Delish with the roasted veggies! Always interesting cooking in an apartment kitchen with random pots, pans, and utensils. More wine to be had with some Šljivovica on top, of course! Great meal with great friends...and the kids even liked it too. Nice way to wrap up our vacation with the Malinowski's.
14AUG2017 Tkon, Pašman - Šibenik - Split
We boarded the 9:30 ferry at Tkon to cross to Biograd and head towards Split. We said goodbye to Sandra, Jeff and the kids in Biograd and headed down the highway. Sandra suggested we stop in Šibenik for a day of walking around...so about halfway on our drive to Split, we pulled off the highway to visit Šibenik. We wandered up and down stone stairs and through alleyways to check out the town and a couple of UNESCO sites in Šibenik, but it was hot and crowded, so we spent an hour and a half looking in a couple churches and hiking up to the top of one of the fortresses there (only to decide not to visit the fortress because it was expensive) before we decided to call it quits and head to Split.
Once arriving in Split, we parked the car in a lot next to the water and ran to the hotel to dump off our stuff and check in. To our relief the hotel staff reparked the car for us in an area that only charged 15 Euros per day as opposed to the high parking costs all around the old town. And they squandered up a young lad that worked at the restaurant to carry our heavy bags up the three flights of stairs to our room. Yay! We changed and set out for our first meal in Split....Konoba Matoni (or Ma:toni) as it said in the restaurant. It was a couple blocks away from the old town, but got great reviews in Trip Advisor, so I insisted we make the walk over there. It was only 6pm, so fairly early, and the restaurant was empty, so they didn't mind taking us walk-in's, but had we been any later, it would have been a problem, as the small restaurant quickly filled up. Great restaurant with fantastic food. By far, this was our best meal in Croatia thus far! Wine was good too, recommended by our waiter. If you felt so inclined, you could take a bottle back with you as the restaurant has an adjoining wine shop with quite a diverse selection of Croatian wines in addition to others from around the world.
15AUG2017 Split
Our Hotel Peristil was smack dab in the middle of the walls of Split. They were so helpful! They were also helpful and friendly with helping us navigating the town. Breakfast was plentiful....basically guests can order whatever we want off the menu. I really enjoyed the egg scramble and the fresh fruit.
We enjoyed our day walking around the old town of Split. Unfortunately, most of the sites were religious in nature and were closed for the Assumption of Mary holiday. But we had a nice time walking around the twisting streets and medieval walls. We even found our way to an outdoor Italian market that sold all sorts of cheeses, cured meats, baked goods and fruit. It was just nice to walk through. After a stop and the Luxor cafe for a quick drink on cushions in the Diocletian Palacenap, we tried the Wine and Cheese Bar Paradox for a cheese plate and 12 different Croatian wines as navigated by our server. It was a great experience and I really enjoyed it. We traveled to Sexy Cow for dinner.....mostly because of the name. It was a "fast food" joint with only a couple of small tables, but the food was really good and it was able to be made into gluten free for me....so winner, winner! All in all it was a fabulous day!
Left Split around 9am with plans to drive briefly into Bosnia-Herzegovina for a quick look, and just long enough to get out of the car to say we have been to that country. Getting across the border into Bosnia was easy. It wasn't very efficient, but the line moved and it only took about 15 minutes of waiting at the border crossing to get our passports checked. NOTE: some of the border crossings require proof of car registration, so make sure you have that handy when you cross the border in addition to your passports. The town we were aiming for, Stolac, was a very nice, built up town with several places to eat, shop, etc. It didn't differ from Croatia all that much, but to be fair, it was right near the border.
I was surprised that the roads were in such good shape...I guess because of the war in the early 90's, I was expecting way more damage to buildings and dilapidated roads, but it looks like there has been a huge effort in both Croatia and the border area of Bosnia to create nice roads with excellent signage, making it really easy to navigate. Everything on our diversion was great until we reached the border crossing back into Croatia. There was a line of cars 2 miles long and it wasn't moving at all. Not a great sign. Whats weird is that we could see Dubrovnik from the road...only about 20km away. There wasn't any indication of any road accidents or reason for the stopped traffic...but slowly we creeped along. Finally we saw the problem. They are building a new Border Control building that will eventually house both Croatia and Bosnia passport control, but it wasn't finished yet. So, Bosnia's solution to getting traffic through in an efficient manner was to put a temporary trailer on the right side of the road that would service both sides of traffic. The border control would continually walk across the road back and forth to run the passports into the trailer to be scanned and stamped, and then would run out to deliver the passports back to the driver. Hubs was less than pleased with the lack of efficiency. We finally made it to the Bosnian checkpoint after 2 hours of waiting....but, it didn't really matter how quick we were able to go through the Bosnian checkpoint because traffic wasn't moving at all towards the Croatian checkpoint. I think the wounds are still raw from the war, because when we asked the guard at the Bosnian checkpoint and he said it was because all they do at the Croatian checkpoint is look at Instagram and Facebook. Another hour and a half later we reached the Croatian checkpoint and coasted through. We rarely run into issues traveling.....we are so lucky. But when we mentioned the issues at the checkpoint, no one local thought it was unusual. Too bad because it took up half a day of touring.
After three and a half hours at the border check, we made our way to Dubrovnik airport to turn in the car. I opted to return it there instead of the downtown office because I knew there was an airport Shuttle bus that ran back and forth between the airport and the old city. So we bought round trip tickets for the shuttle and jumped on the bus which only took 10 minutes to arrive. There is an electronic kiosk outside to buy tickets, but we couldn't seem to make it work, so hubs went inside to buy the round trip tickets. It dropped us off either at the Pile Gate or at the train Station. The Pile gate was close to our hotel, so we opted for that stop.
It was about 200 yards from the Pile Gate to our Hotel: Prijeko Palace. It was on the street parallel to the main drag up a set of stairs. Great hotel! Loved the convenience of having our hotel so close to the old city attractions and all the restaurants. We dropped our gear and headed out to find a restaurant for dinner. We opted for Zizari****.....for a fine dinner. It was a bit more expensive than some of the other restaurants we had experienced in Croatia, but it was really tasty and presented well. We then decided to try the Buzo I for a drink by the water. It was the perfect spot to have the best view of the Adriatic. There is beer, wine, and mixed drinks, but very simple stuff. Most of the drinks are served in very classy plastic cups. We had a nice time checking out the view and enjoying the best people watching. After the long day, it was time to hit the hay.
17AUG2017 Dubrovnik
What a whirlwind day! Breakfast at the hotel restaurant, Stara Loza, was nice. Guests that prepaid breakfast get a choice of one item off the menu....and there were lots of choices, so pretty happy about that. Laundry was really necessary, so we tried to coordinate that with our hotel to do a load for us, but they were having some issues with the washer, so we went to a launderette called Lavaman (recommended by Rick Steve's) that is a drop off and get it back same day thing. It was expensive (250 kn for our load...they apparently charge by the kilo), but since we only had one day in Dubrovnik and our clothes were starting to walk on their own, I pushed my "cheap" self aside and ponied up the cash to have them do our laundry. What a relief to not have to sit in a laundromat waiting for clothes to clean. We scurried off to buy our 1-Day Dubrovnik card.
The card is ideal for touring around Dubrovnik. If you think you will be walking on the city walls and going to a couple of museums, this card is an excellent value at 170kn. We spent the morning walking the old city and visiting churches and museums (especially ones we wouldn't have gone to if it weren't for the card giving free entry). We started at the Rector's palace: beautiful building with lots of religious paintings and a couple of rotating exhibits, including a photographer's view of the 1991 wartime. Took about 45 minutes to see all of it. I think that Ryan enjoyed the shade and the breeze coming through the windows the most.
Then we ducked into the Church of St. Blaise (Sveti Vlaho)....My favorite of the three churches we visited. it was small and comfortable....not too ornate. Very humble. NOTE: none of the three churches we visited today required covering of shoulders....nice
Next was the Museum of Natural History (Prirodoslovni Muzej Dubrovnik). It wasn't the most detailed Natural History museum I have seen, but I liked the focus on the wildlife of the area and the examples of all the different sea life you would see in the Adriatic. We blazed through the four floors of exhibits in about 45 minutes. It was cute and would be a great outing for a 3rd grade crowd.
We checked out the Cathedral next (Katedrala). It was a large, impressive church. It was obvious where the dome was repaired from the damage done in the war. And there were pictures on the wall depicting what the church looked like after Dubrovnik was bombed in the early 90's. I was impressed with the different marbles used inside the church. Very nice space.
Next we visited Marin DrŹič House, Cultural Historical Museum (Kulturno-povijesni muzej), and the Ethnographic Museum Rupe. All three were less than exciting. I was very much looking forward to the Ethnographic Museum, but the items that were said to be showcased here were not here. Maybe they were renovating the museum? Not sure, but all they had on display were some cultural toys for children. Meh. Would I go back? Probably not. However, good escape from the sun.
We walked along the old port towards the aquarium (not covered by the card) to take a peek to see if we wanted to pay to look at the exhibit. Disappointing single floor with a couple of tanks, so we opted out. But our card got us into the Maritime museum. It was interesting....lots of model ships, maps of trade routes, and parts of ships and cargo rescued from the sea. It would have been better with air conditioning, as it was rather balmy in there, but it was a nice museum.
Then we decided to take the cable car up to Mount Srd. Now this was money well spent! There was a consistent breeze, gorgeous views and lots of photo ops on top of the mountain. We decided to enjoy the view a bit longer and stayed for drinks at the Panorama restaurant. You have the options to hike up the mountain if you don't want to pay for the cable car ride for 108 kn round trip, but the ride is smooth and fun, so I found it to be worth the $$.
After a snooze and picking up our laundry, We ventured out on the city walls. It is about a mile all the way around. After reading the warnings about what time of day was best to walk the wall, we decided that 6pm would be the best start time. I could see why everyone says to go early or late in the day...as the stones were still very hot from mid day as we walked the circumference of the city. Originally, we only intended to walk half the wall, but we were unaware that there is only one direction to walk and a few entry/exit points, so once on there, we decided to just walk the whole thing. It was a little crowded but I could see how it could be a frustrating activity with tons of people on the wall at the same time in the heat. Definitely adhere to the recommended early or late start times if you decide to do it. Walking the walls provides ample views of the city, beautiful seaside views, and great people watching. There are opportunities to grab a drink along the way if you are thirsty or a quick snack. We didn't partake, but I can be sure it is more expensive than bringing your own, so make sure to have a hat, water, and comfy shoes when you go.
We decided burgers were the way to go for dinner. I found a "fast food" restaurant called Presa that got rave reviews for good, cheap eats in Dubrovnik. We agreed with the reviews. Quick, simple food, nice flavors, and deliciously filling, this was the place for us today...especially since we trucked our way through the city all day. Sweaty and tired, we decided that we would call it a day so that we could pack and get ready for our trip to Budapest in the morning.
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